In May of 2013, I took a one week vacation from my job in Brazil and travelled to the beautiful country of Peru. Although one week is hardly enough time to explore such a richly diverse and scenic country, I did my best to cover as many different regions as possible. The target destinations that I chose were the desert of Paracas, the high-altitude Lake Titicaca, and the famous ruins of Machu Picchu. The following describes the highlights of my adventure as I travelled to these locations and attempted to capture their unique beauty.
LIMA - PARK OF LOVE
May 17, 2013
Located on the cliff tops above the Costa Verde, the Park of Love provides a grand view of the Lima coastline. It’s one of the best known parks in Lima’s upscale Miraflores district and was a great place to hang out and relax after arriving in Lima. The views were a little hazy, but the ornately decorated wall that lined the cliff side of the park created a beautiful contrast with the gray horizon. Every few minutes a paraglider would drift by overhead, riding the updraft from the coastal breeze.
LIMA BUS TOUR
May 17, 2013
A tour on an open roof double-decker bus was a great way to get a quick preview of Lima’s main attractions. In Lima Centro, two main squares, Plaza San Martin and Plaza Mayor, are surrounded by beautiful Spanish colonial buildings, such as la Catedral in Plaza Mayor, shown here. The city, and Lima Centro in particular, is abundant with history and culture, which is made evident by the many statues, museums, and churches spread throughout the area. After circling the plazas, the bus stopped for a tour of Iglesia de San Francisco, a beautiful church from the 17th century with an exquisite library, a monastery, and underground catacombs containing thousands of skulls and bones.
LIMA - MAGIC WATER CIRCUIT
May 17, 2013
Almost every evening, the Parque de la Reserva comes alive with a beautifully lit water fountain display. Several of the displays are composed of numerous streams of water shooting directly out of the pavement and people, especially children, enjoy standing, running, and playing in them. For me, it became an excellent place to get some fun and interesting photos.
EL CHACO
May 18, 2013
A four hour bus ride from Lima got me to the little town of El Chaco at the entrance of the Paracas Reserve. Although there are several hotels and hostels in the town, I had read that it was acceptable to camp on the beach, so I setup my tent in an isolated area of the beach and watched the sun go down over the Paracas peninsula. The thin, broken clouds made for a beautiful sunset that night.
BALLESTAS ISLANDS
May 19, 2013
The Ballestas Islands, located just off the coast of the Paracas peninsula, are a mecca for seabirds and sea lions. Almost every inch of these small islands is inhabited by marine wildlife. A morning boat tour around the islands gave me an opportunity to get some good shots of Humboldt Penguins, sea lions, pelicans, Peruvian boobies, and Guanay cormorants. In addition to seeing the Ballestas Islands, the boat tour passed by El Candelabro, a very large geoglyph of a trident shape located on the northern face of the peninsula.
PARACAS
May 19, 2013
Back on land, I joined a small tour group in an old rickety van that took us out to the main view points on the peninsula. The first stop was at the Cathedral Rock overlook on the southern side of the peninsula. The cathedral rock formation used to be a connected arch until the earthquake in 2007 collapsed the bridge, leaving the pointed rock island just off shore. The overlook was a great location to view the rugged coastline and the bright blue water below. Next we stopped at a high point in the middle of the peninsula where we could see the great expanse of desert extending out to the ocean. Continuing west across the peninsula, we drove down to Playa Roja, or Red Beach, where the unique dark red sand creates a stark contrast with the foamy white waves. After having lunch in Lagunillas, we drove back across the peninsula for a quick stop at the information center before returning to El Chaco.
LANDING IN JULIACA
May 20, 2013
After spending another night in Lima, I hopped on a short flight to Juliaca, in route to Puno and Lake Titicaca. Flying over the Andes early in the morning was a beautiful sight as the low angle of the sun accentuated the mountain tops and cast shadows in the valleys. For most of the flight, the mountainous terrain stretched out for as far as I could see, but as we approached Juliaca, the terrain flattened out into the high altitude plains of the Altiplano.
PUNO - LAKE TITICACA
May 20, 2013
Arriving in Puno, I went up to the top of a small hill above the town where I could see Lake Titicaca spread out on the eastern horizon. Puno is the main port city on the lake, however, it’s located on an inlet of the lake so, from this location, only a small portion of the massive lake is visible. Even still, the scene was picturesque with the small town spread across the valley and hillsides on the edge of the lake.
LAKE TITICACA FLOATING ISLANDS
May 20, 2013
Predating the time of the Incas, a tribe of people known as Uros, started a civilization on Lake Titicaca by building a network of floating reed islands. Living on floating islands that could be moved around the lake kept the Uros protected from enemies and, although they were conquered by the Incans, their lake civilization has remained intact. Today many of these floating islands still exist and are one of the major tourist attractions of the lake. In the evening of my arrival in Puno, I joined a tour and went out on the lake to see these floating islands and get a more intimate view of the lake itself.
RAYA PASS
May 21, 2013
Beginning my journey to Machu Picchu, I bought a tour bus ticket from Puno to Cusco. Leaving the Altiplano behind, the bus headed north, into the prominent peaks of the Andes. The first stop was at Raya Pass, the highest point in the journey at 14,222 ft above sea level.
RAQCH'I RUINS
May 21, 2013
The bus tour stopped at several churches and historical sites along the route to Cusco. One of these stops was at the archaeological site at Raqch’i, which contains the remains of an Incan village, most likely used as a control point on the road from Cusco. The main feature of the site is the remaining central wall of the Temple of Wiracocha, which was possibly one of the largest buildings in the Incan Empire. The remnants at this site display the incredible stone work typical in Incan architecture. The base of the temple walls and columns are constructed of interlinked stones that fit together without even the slightest gap in the seams.
CUSCO AT NIGHT
May 21, 2013
In early evening the bus tour arrived in the historical city of Cusco. Cusco was the capital city of the ancient Inca Empire until it was taken over by Spain in the 1500s. Today, Cusco is the capital city of the Cuzco Province and contains a wealth of both Incan and Spanish historical sites. Although I didn’t have time to explore much of the city, the hostel I was staying in was located on a hill, providing a great view of the city at night.
AGUAS CALIENTES
May 22, 2013
The small town of Aguas Calientes is located in the valley below the famous site of Machu Picchu. Being the closest access point to Machu Picchu, it’s primarily a tourist town, full of hostels, hotels, and restaurants catering to foreign visitors. Arriving there by train from Cusco, I spent the afternoon exploring the little town, then had some dinner and went to bed early, preparing for a pre-dawn trip up to Machu Picchu the next morning.
MACHU PICCHU - FIRST VIEW
May 23, 2013
Hoping for a beautiful early morning shot of the Machu Picchu ruins, I got up at 4:00 am and joined a crowd of people at the Aguas Calientes bus stop. A never ending line of buses filled with tourists and headed up the mountain one by one. Although I was nowhere near the front of the line, I was eventually packed into one of the buses and taken up to join the rest of the crowd gathering at the park entrance at the top of the hill. When the park gates opened at 6:00 am, the crowd pushed and shoved through the entrance as tourists made a mad dash for the best position on the viewing platform, however the extra effort was unrewarded as the entire site was shrouded by fog. I joined the crowd on the viewing platform and waited for the fog to lift.
MACHU PICCHU – LATE AFTERNOON
May 23, 2013
Later in the morning, the sun finally came over the eastern mountains and burned the fog away, revealing the entire site. However, by that time, the sunlight was very bright, overexposing the colors and creating a harsh contras with the shadows. For most of the day, I walked around the site, exploring and photographing the different areas of the ruins. As closing time approached, I headed back up to the viewing platform for another look at the view. Now that the sun was getting low on the west side, the softer afternoon light deepened the colors and evened out the contrast, setting the beautiful scene I was looking for. As the guards whistled that the park was closing, I snapped a set of panoramic shots that made the photo below.
EARLY MORNING TRAIN RIDE
May 24, 2013
Traveling back to Cusco on the early morning train, the snowcapped Andes peaks reflected the light of the morning sun. The scenery along this route is amazing and I never got tired of watching the rugged mountains passing by on each side of the valley.
CUSCO
May 24, 2013
Back in Cusco, I had a few hours to kill before my flight back to Lima, so I started walking through the city and eventually ended up in the Plaza de Armas. The Plaza de Armas is a large square in the center of the city with beautifully landscaped gardens and a large fountain in the middle. I found an open bench and sat down to enjoy the view, looking across the square at the Jesuit church called la Compania.
FLYING OVER THE ANDES
May 24, 2013
Seeing an aerial view of the Andes on the flight back to Lima brought a nice conclusion to the trip. The massive mountain range, stretching all the way to the tip of the continent, beckons for future adventures amongst its awe-inspiring peaks. I hope to return in the near future to photograph more of this incredible landscape.